Arbor Day is observed on the last Friday of April every year. The purpose of this celebration is to raise awareness about the importance of trees to our environment – from preventing soil erosion to producing oxygen. The result of this awareness, hopefully, is to inspire homeowners to plant a tree on their own property – or make a donation to purchase trees for the grounds of a non-profit organization’s common areas.

But you don’t need to wait for Arbor Day to enhance your Central Florida yard with a tree – or two – or more. Thanks to our subtropical climate, there are tree species that can be planted throughout the year! Now that you’re thinking about it, here’s what you need to know about choosing and planting a tree.

The Benefits of Planting a Tree in Your Yard

The beauty that trees add to your house immediately comes to mind as a good reason for planting them. Moreover, trees can increase property value by as much as 15 percent. The good people at Warner Tree Service provide the following additional benefits of adding a tree to your Central Florida yard:

Erosion – In a state prone to flash floods, storm surges and other weather-related disasters, tree coverage plays a crucial role in preventing soil erosion and flooding.

Heat – Shade trees help to keep homes cool during the summer. The dense foliage cast by mature trees creates a “canopy” that shields the ground from direct sunlight. As a result, the air temperature is cooler, allowing us to enjoy more outdoor activities during the summer months.

Air pollution – The dense foliage cast by mature trees also traps dust and other air pollutants inside the canopy, helping to reduce air pollution and creating a healthier environment to breathe.

Wildlife – Florida trees are a fantastic habitat for many different animals and wildlife.

Factors to Consider when Choosing a Tree – Plus Some Suggestions on Trees to Choose From

In your enthusiasm to plant a tree, don’t make the mistake of rushing out to the home improvement store’s gardening center or local nursery to buy the first sapling that catches your fancy. You may have an idea of where you want a tree, but study your property and do research on the tree species you’re considering. When it comes to trees, the trial-and-error method that you might be used to applying to shrubs and flowers doesn’t work as well. By the time you realize it’s in the wrong spot, the tree will be too difficult – and probably expensive – to transplant to a better location in your yard, or remove entirely.

University of Florida IFAS Gardening Solutions provides this helpful guide to factors to consider when choosing a tree:

Choose high-quality trees with good structure – Like any good investment, spending a little extra cash up front on a tree of superior quality will likely pay off in the long run.

Think ahead – Don’t plant trees that grow large beneath power lines, close to your house, or in other potentially hazardous sites. If your home features solar panels, be sure any trees you plant will not block them.

Give trees adequate rooting space, with no obstructions – Sturdy trees have straight main roots. Curbs, foundations, and sidewalks all act as barriers to roots, making them turn and twist. A tree with twisted roots will not be as stable as one with strong, straight roots.

If you can, plant trees in groups – Trees planted in groups are much better protected in high winds. In addition, trees planted in combination with appropriate shrubs and groundcovers form effective windbreaks and wildlife habitat.

Placement matters – Position trees and shrubs strategically to naturally cool or heat your home. Plant deciduous shade trees on the south, east, and west sides of a house to cast shade in summer and allow warming in winter. Tree shade can reduce air conditioning costs significantly – an air-conditioning system’s outdoor compressor/condenser unit uses less energy when it is shaded from direct sun during the day. Just be careful not to block the unit’s airflow with low branches.

So what kind of tree should you consider to grace your yard? If you want relatively easy maintenance and maximum resiliency to Florida’s demanding climate, look at native Florida trees – particularly those that are better able to withstand hurricanes.

University of Florida IFAS Gardening Solutions has the following recommendations for native Florida trees that can be a great addition to your property. Click this link to read the entire article for the complete list of trees.

“Florida has several attractive, hardy species of differing sizes. From small trees like redbuds to the majestic live oak, there’s a Florida native tree for practically any home landscape.

“If you’re looking for small trees, consider the redbud. In Central and North Florida, it puts on an amazing show each spring with a beautiful display of pink flowers. The medium-to-large red maple ushers in spring with red flowers and winged seeds.

“As far as large trees go, the bald cypress will do well near water or on drier land throughout the state. The live oak is a majestic native that can also be planted statewide.

“Even if a tree is native, make sure you know its soil, light, and other requirements, to ensure its success in your landscape.”

As for hurricane-resistant trees, research conducted by University of Florida scientists showed that sand live oaks are the most resistant to wind damage. Other good choices include the Southern magnolia, live oak, crape myrtle, bald cypress and sabal palm. These trees are less likely to lose limbs or blow over during hurricanes. Some of the trees with the least wind resistance were sand pine, Chinese elm, water oak, and laurel oak.

You may have noticed that we haven’t yet mentioned our beloved palm trees. Although botanically speaking they’re not really trees (in fact, they are monocots), their flexible trunks bend rather than break in high-speed winds, making palms very good at surviving hurricanes and tropical storms. Our blog post – “Palm Tree Care and Feeding” – covers more about Florida’s iconic tree in greater detail.

Want the Experience of Planting a Tree Yourself? Here’s How to Do It!

Some people want the hands-on experience of digging a hole, planting their tree, filling the hole back and giving the tree its first drink of water on their land. For the tree to successfully establish itself, grow and thrive, this process must be done correctly.

Before digging, however, make sure the tree’s location is away from underground pipes and your septic tank, if applicable. Also ensure that it’s well away from underground utility lines.

University of Florida IFAS Gardening Solutions provides the following instructions:

Look up – Find a new planting site if there is a wire, security light, or building nearby that could interfere with the tree as it grows.

Dig a wide, shallow hole – Dig a hole that is one and one-half to three times the width of the root ball (the roots and soil attached to the plant when you remove it from its pot). You can also dig a hole that is only slightly larger than the root ball and simply loosen the soil around it with a shovel.

Find the point where the uppermost root emerges from the trunk – This point is called the trunk flare, root flare, or root crown and should be even with or slightly above the soil surface. Remove any roots that circle close to the trunk. 

Slide the tree into the planting hole and position it carefully – Place the trunk flare slightly above the surface of the landscape soil and begin to fill the hole with the excavated soil, making sure the tree is straight as you go. As you add the soil, slice a shovel down into it twenty to thirty times, all around the tree. Compress the soil with your foot to stabilize the tree. 

Shave off the outer inch or so of the root ball with a sharp shovel – This removes roots that could strangle the trunk later as it grows in diameter. It also encourages roots to quickly grow into the landscape soil and makes the tree sturdier in winds.

Add plenty of water to the root ball and planting hole – Make sure the root ball and surrounding soil are thoroughly moistened. Add more soil around the root ball if needed.

Cover the backfill soil with mulch – Apply mulch to a minimum 8-foot diameter circle 3 inches deep around the tree, with a gap of 12 inches between the trunk and the mulch.

Stake the tree, if necessary – Staking holds the root ball firmly in the soil. Top-heavy trees might require staking, especially if they’re located in a windy location. Stakes should be removed within one year of planting.

Water trees frequently so roots fully establish – Light, frequent irrigation fosters the quickest establishment for trees. Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, water weekly until the tree is fully established.

The Take-Home Message

As you’ve learned, choosing the right tree or trees requires a good deal of research and landscape design sense. And you may not be inclined to plant it – or them. Why not call us? Daniel’s Lawn Service & Pressure Washing does it all! We’ll come to your house, walk around your yard with you, and recommend the best tree(s) for your property, and how to incorporate them into your landscape to provide optimum function and curb appeal.

Tell us your ideas! Do you want a backyard for entertaining or recreation? Our landscaping experts can suggest the perfect trees that fit in with your plans! Are you looking for shade trees, or trees that can help reduce the heat your house absorbs? Or trees that create a tropical vibe? The tree – and yard – of your dreams is just a phone call away!

Our full-service company provides landscape design, tree installation, tree trimming, yard maintenance, pressure washing and so much more. Contact us today so we can do the work, and you can do the enjoying! We proudly serve all of Central Florida – including Orlando, Sanford, Longwood and Lake Mary! We look forward to helping you achieve your goals and bring your vision to life!

Even though Central Florida is spared harsh winters that cause foliage to drop leaves or turn brown, some plants still aren’t at their beautiful best during this season. Fortunately, there are many shrubs that provide abundant greenery – and even colorful blooms – to cheer and brighten your yard even without holiday decorations! The best part is they’ll keep their good looks throughout the year. Here are some of our favorites that can be an asset to any landscape!

Seven Shrubs That Will Look Terrific All Year Long

There are so many Florida-friendly evergreen shrubs that can complement your property, it’s a challenge to narrow them down to a specific number. But we tried. The following recommendations are provided courtesy of University of Florida IFAS Gardening Solutions and Warner Tree Service. If you’d like to explore more possibilities, our blog post – “Great Perennials for Your Central Florida Landscape” – provides additional suggestions.

Azalea – Although azalea shrubs attract the most attention in spring – when they burst into bloom with showy red, pink or white flowers – they remain thick, green and leafy all 12 months of the year. The versatile azalea makes an ideal backdrop for seasonal flower beds, as well as used for borders, hedges and around trees. There are several azalea cultivars, so find the one – or ones – that will look the best and be the most compatible with soil and sunlight conditions on your property. Be advised that its pollen can trigger allergies, so consider this if you’re thinking about adding an azalea or two – or more – to your landscape!

Camellia – When this lovely shrub isn’t producing elegant blooms during fall and winter (depending upon the cultivar), its evergreen foliage, interesting shapes and textures, and relatively slow growth make camellias excellent landscape plants. Camellias can serve several functions in the landscape – including foundation plantings, screens, accent plants, background groupings and hedges. Maximum benefit can be achieved by mass plantings or groupings. Plant in a sheltered location with partial shade to help them achieve optimum growth and blooms. Prune before late summer.

Crepe Jasmine – This intriguing evergreen shrub is moderately dense and rounded, blooming in spiraling white flowers that are particularly prominent in the warmer months – although they stand out against the dark green, glossy leaves in any season. Crepe jasmine grows in full sun to shade, but looks best when grown in filtered shade. This plant is ideal for creating a shrubbery border. It also looks good as a specimen plant, and its rounded form makes it an excellent foundation planting against a windowless wall.

Croton – Known for their bold, tropical foliage, crotons are perennial evergreen shrubs and a favorite in Central Florida yards. They’re available in a wide variety of leaf shapes and colors that include reds, oranges, yellows, pinks, purple, greens, and white. Most cultivars grow best in full sun, while others prefer light/partial shade. Crotons thrive in warm, humid weather and should be watered frequently, but not excessively. Plants should be located two to three feet apart.

Dwarf Holly – You may associate hollies with the holidays, but the dwarf holly shrub can be a terrific addition to your landscape that proves its worth all year long! Dwarf hollies are found throughout Florida and they are dioecious – meaning the female and male plants are separate. If you want berries, opt for female shrubs. With red berries and glossy green foliage, Burfordii Nana grows well in Central Florida. This dense, compact shrub grows up to a spread and height of 5–8 feet. ‘Carissa’ and ‘Rotunda’ are two holly cultivars that will take up limited space in your yard. These shrubs can tolerate an extensive range of soil and light conditions. They need minimal pruning and occasional shaping. Another advantage: they’re wind-resistant and can stand up to a hurricane!

Ixora – This low-maintenance evergreen shrub truly delivers the biggest bang for your gardening buck! A compact, densely-branching shrub, ixora is ideal for planting as a hedge, border, screen, or featured specimen – depending on which variety you choose. It blooms year-‘round, producing clusters of four-petaled flowers in such colors as orange, bright red, pink, yellow and white. While full sun is necessary for maximum flower production, this plant – especially large-leaved varieties – can be grown in partial shade. Ixora can be pruned any time and will handle shearing, but be aware that pruning will reduce your plant’s flowering.

Thryallis – If you’re looking for a low-maintenance, reliable shrub with a superb floral display, thryallis is the plant for you! Also commonly known as “rain-of-gold” due to its yellow flower clusters, berry-like fruits continue to add texture through the fall and winter after the blooms fade. It reaches a mature size of 4-6 feet wide and 5-9 feet high. You can allow it to maintain its mounding shape, train it into a small, multi-trunked tree or prune it into a loose hedge. Thryallis grows best in full sun, and looks particularly impressive combined with other flowering shrubs.

Think Before You Plant

The location, planting technique and initial care for a shrub will affect its growth and long-term health. University of Florida IFAS Gardening Solutions provides the following advice.

Choose the right shrub for your site – The young shrub that caught your eye at the home improvement center or plant nursery could wind up being more than you bargained for! Consider its mature size. Many of the plants that are labeled “large shrubs” are also considered “small trees.” Research the mature size of your species before you plant it, and give it space to grow.

Also check the ideal soil type, soil pH, water and light needs of your shrub species. If the intended spot in your yard doesn’t match your shrub’s needs, don’t plant! Instead, choose a species that can thrive in existing site conditions, or choose another part of your landscape.

Placement matters – Depending on their mature size, shrubs placed in the right spot can naturally cool or insulate your home. Don’t plant shrubs too close to the house, though. Planting too close will reduce airflow and leave your shrubs vulnerable to fungal diseases. It makes it difficult to perform maintenance on the home, as well – especially when it’s time to paint the exterior. Keep the center of the plant more than 2.5 feet from the foundation.

Plant in groups – Groups of multiple shrubs will give your landscape design a unified and cohesive feel. Denser plantings are the preferred shelter of most wildlife species, as well. Individual plants in a group should touch when they reach their mature size. Adjacent groups of different shrubs should overlap and connect with one another.

Plan ahead to establish – It will take about 5-7 months for a plant to become established in the new site. This is true of both native and non-native species. Until the shrub expands its root system and adjusts to the new site, it will need regular irrigation. The worst time to plant is when the weather is both hot and dry. Moreover, some Florida counties implement watering restrictions during summer. Most Florida county websites have information about the days of the week and hours of the day when watering is permitted. If possible, plant just before Florida’s rainy season, which is mid- to late May through mid-October.

The Take-Home Message

Thanks to the abundance of attractive, low-maintenance evergreen shrub varities available, your slice of Central Florida paradise can avoid the winter blahs and be lush, vibrant and inviting every season! We hope we’ve provided some inspiration and information for incorporating at least one of these great shrubs into your landscape.

However, if you’re not the green thumb type but still want your property to be a source of pride and the neighborhood jewel, call Daniel’s Lawn Care & Pressure Washing to design, plant and even maintain the yard of your dreams!

Our full-service company provides landscape design, tree installation, tree trimming, yard maintenance, bush hogging, pressure washing and so much more. Contact us today so we can do the work, and you can do the enjoying! We proudly serve all of Central Florida – including Orlando, Sanford, Longwood and Lake Mary! We look forward to helping you achieve your goals and bring your vision to life!

The subtropical climate that makes Central Florida such a desirable place for humans to live during winter months has a downside, as it’s also very agreeable to a variety of insect pests that infest your yard. And by the way, it’s something of a misconception that the freezing winter temperatures of northern locales kill them off. According to Farmer’s Almanac, “Cold winters do not kill as many bugs as you might think. All insects possess some ability to endure cold weather.”

However, like people, pleasant weather encourages destructive lawn and garden bugs to be more active – and, therefore, more likely to do serious damage. Here is our list of the most common pests to look out for, and how to prevent them from ruining your lawn.

Chinch Bugs – Small, but Deadly to Lawns

This deceptively harmless-looking insect feeds by draining the sap from grass while injecting a toxin until it withers. Making it more difficult to identify is the fact that its appearance changes throughout its lifecycle. As described by University of Florida IFAS Gardening Solutions, “Young chinch bugs are orange with a white stripe across their back. As they grow older, they emerge as black, winged adults. The final stage of the lifecycle is an adult with black and white wings and orange legs. Even at this stage they are only a fifth of an inch long, about the length of a grain of rice. At this size they can be hard to spot.”

Chinch bugs hide in between the sheaths of the leaf blades and in the thatch layer in the turf. Damaged areas appear as yellow to brown patches. The center of these areas may be dead and bare. As not all brown grass indicates a chinch bug infestation, University of Florida IFAS Gardening Solutions recommends inspecting the border between the brown and green grass for the tiny, black-and-white adults or orange nymphs.

Injury typically occurs first in grass that’s water-stressed or in full sun, so making sure your lawn gets adequate irrigation is essential. Our blog post – “How to Water Your Central Florida Lawn” – covers this topic in detail. LawnStarter recommends removing excessive thatch as the best way to prevent chinch bugs from establishing themselves. For winter, overseed your lawn with a grass seed resistant to chinch bug damage. Use pesticides only as a last resort, as they can kill beneficial insects – such as big-eyed bugs (yes, this is the name) and ground beetles – that eat chinch bugs.

Cutworms – Cutting Their Way Through Your Lawn

Cutworms are 2-inch long caterpillars that chew on turfgrass near the soil surface. During the day, cutworms hide in the lawn’s thatch layer. They come out at night to dine on the grass, and are most active during the spring and early summer.

Signs of infestation include circular patches of dead grass with small burrow holes (like ball marks on putting greens). Cutworm damage is most noticeable on grass less than ½-inch tall. Also look for birds, armadillos, raccoons and skunks on your lawn hunting for them.

The best prevention method is thatch removal. To treat an infestation, natural control agents include Bacillus thuringiensis var. Kurstaki – A bacterium that produces a toxin that paralyzes the caterpillar’s gut and stops it from feeding. There’s also Steinernema carpocapsae – a nematode that penetrates the cutworm. It introduces a bacterium and causes an infection inside the host. Nematodes are sold online and in garden centers. 

Chemical insecticides that target cutworms are another option. When choosing a pesticide, consider information relating to air and water quality, resistance management, and the pesticide’s properties and application timing. Always read the product label, and follow application instructions.

Fall Armyworms – On the March to Destroy Your Central Florida Lawn

The name of this lawn pest is somewhat misleading, as fall armyworms are also active in spring. They are green to brown colored caterpillars when young, and dark brown when they mature. They reach up to 1.5 inches long and have a dark head marked with a light colored inverted Y. Fall armyworms ultimately emerge as brown moths with white-tipped forewings, and have a 1.5 inch wingspan.

According to University of Florida IFAS, fall armyworms feed on all grass, but prefer Bermuda grass, feeding mainly in the early morning and late evening. They tend to be more of a problem on newly established turf, especially if it was heavily fertilized in late summer. Look for large, bare areas of ground in your lawn, and brown moths flying around your landscaping lights at night. If you suspect fall armyworms are the reason for your lawn’s bare spots, test by mixing one tablespoon of liquid dish soap in one gallon of water. Pour onto a four-foot by four-foot area of grass near the damage. If fall armyworms are present, they’ll crawl to the surface.

As with chinch bugs, avoid treating with pesticides, as you’ll kill their natural predators. To attract their natural predators, plant nectar-producing flower plants that draw ladybugs, parasitic wasps, lacewings and minute pirate bugs. Introduce beneficial nematodes like Steinernema carpocapsae and Heterorhabditis bacteriophora. Apply Bacillus thuringiensis, a bacterium that kills armyworms in their larval stage.

Mole Crickets – Disturbing in Appearance; Destructive in Action

This lawn pest looks like a small-scale movie monster – an unnerving cross between a mole and a cricket. They are uniformly brown, and adults are about 1 ½ inches long. They have large front legs for digging, which look similar to mole paws. They’re a serious pest notorious for tunneling through lawns and causing major damage to grass. Mole crickets are active throughout the year but become more prevalent in Florida during the winter, due to their preference for moist soil. They can damage any grass, but prefer St. Augustine, Bahia and Bermuda grass.

Look for the following signs of mole cricket infestation:

• Brown spots of dead or dying grass.
• Small mounds of brown soil.
• Armadillos and birds on your lawn hunting for food.

Like actual moles, mole crickets are nocturnal, so look for them in the evening. If you don’t want to wait, perform the soapy water test described above to see if they emerge. They are best controlled by maintaining a healthy lawn, and such biological means as parasitic nematodes. The nematode species Steinernema scapterisci infiltrates the mole cricket’s body, then reproduces and releases a bacterium that kills the insect. 

Sod Webworms – Tearing Through Your Central Florida Lawn

The sod webworm is nothing but trouble through and through. Caterpillars are cream-colored with brown spots on each segment and a dark, yellowish brown head. They grow to a full length of slightly less than a half-inch. Sod webworms emerge as brown moths with splotchy triangular-shaped wings and are about ¾-inch wide. They are present throughout the year, with significantly higher numbers in the fall (September–November). This is when they can become very destructive, with little time for your grass to recover before the slower growth of winter.

Look for the following signs of sod webworm infestation:

• Piles of bright green droppings.
• Thinning grass and brown patches.
• Ragged grass blades, shorter than the nearby grass.
• Grass blades are notched as if sections have been chewed off.
• The lawn has webs of grass, feces, and other debris. Caterpillars make them to prepare their cocoons.

If you’re noticing a pattern here, proper lawn maintenance is the best way to prevent sod webworms from establishing themselves. Another pattern – natural treatment is best! Bacterial-based insecticides Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki and aizawai help control sod webworms without harming beneficial organisms. If the infestation is severe, apply a pesticide labeled for caterpillar control.

White Grubs – From Ancient Egypt to Modern Florida Lawn Pest

Although it sounds like a single insect species, white grub is actually a general term for all scarab beetle larvae. Despite the mystical legends of ancient Egypt the scarab beetle may invoke, its larvae is an everyday lawn pest here in Central Florida. They feed on the roots of all turfgrass species, and live at or just below the soil-thatch interface. White grubs rest in a curled C-shape and are about ½ to 2 inches long.

Initial, mild damage from the grubs will leave areas of yellow grass, which is a symptom that is hard to correctly diagnose. Major damage will result in large areas of dead grass. This kind of damage becomes noticeable in late summer to early fall, particularly when the grass is stressed by drought. Look for evidence by cutting down about 2 inches into the grass at the edge of an off-colored area. Cut around three sides of a 1-foot square piece of sod and then pull back the flap of sod you’ve cut free. If the turf is easily pulled away from the soil, that means there are few to no roots on it. If there are grubs present, they are likely the reason. Additional evidence of infestation can be found in adult beetles flying around outdoor lights at night.

Because any one of many beetle species could be responsible, treating them yourself runs the risk of failure. Even if you favor natural remedies, calling in a licensed pest control professional may be the best option. Again, conscientious lawn maintenance can go a long way in preventing white grubs from taking up residence.

Fire Ants – A Menace to People and Pets

Last, but certainly not least, are fire ants. Although they don’t feed on plants, they’re a serious pest in Central Florida lawns. As University of Florida IFAS Extension so eloquently puts it, “Fire ants are notorious for their painful, burning stings that result in pustules and intense itching, which can persist for up to ten days. If the pustules are broken, infections may occur. Some people even have allergic reactions to fire ant stings. Besides attacking humans, fire ants also sting pets, livestock, and wildlife.

“Native to South America, fire ants are considered an invasive species in the United States. These aggressive insects are reddish-brown to black and from one-eighth to one-quarter of an inch long.”

Fire ants build large dirt mounds, but are also found in rotting logs, and around trees and stumps. Unfortunately, fire ants are almost impossible to eradicate permanently once they’ve established a colony. This is why it’s essential to prevent them from moving into your yard. Keep your yard clear of debris, remove logs and have tree stumps removed. Their favored food sources are carbohydrates (fruits, sugars and syrups); proteins (insects and meat); and lipids (grease, lard and oils from seeds). So pick up fallen fruit immediately if you have fruit trees, don’t let meaty pet food sit outdoors for long, and don’t pour kitchen grease out in your yard.

The Take-Home Message

We hope you got the message that proper, consistent lawn maintenance is the ounce of prevention worth the pound of cure. Of course, we also know that there are many reasons why you may not be able to perform all the chores necessary to make your property attractive to you – and your neighbors – and unattractive to lawn pests. That’s what we’re here for! Our experienced professionals at Daniel’s Lawn Service & Pressure Washing specialize in lawn maintenance – as well as landscaping, landscape design, tree services, tree stump removal, pressure washing, and more. Visit our website to learn about our services and contact us so we can do the work and you can do the enjoying!