Now that we’ve sprung ahead to Daylight Saving Time, it’s time to think about spring and your Central Florida lawn! Although we’re fortunate to have relatively mild winter temperatures that don’t kill turfgrasses, don’t think you have nothing to do just because your lawn will green up on its own in the coming weeks! Practicing conscientious lawn care now will pay off in a healthy, verdant blanket of grass guaranteed to make your property the envy of your neighbors!

Our Daniel’s Lawn Service & Pressure Washing Inc. experts offer the following five steps to get your lawn ready for the growing season.

1. Resume a regular mowing schedule

There wasn’t much to do during your lawn’s winter dormancy. But now that those green shoots are emerging, mow once a week. First, however, make sure your lawn mower is up for the job! Check the mower’s fuel system, air filter, spark plug and sharpen blades. LawnWorx recommends attaching a mulch spreader to your mower (if possible) to help provide nutrients to your lawn.

According to University of Florida IFSA Extension, mowing is actually one of the most important home lawn management practices. To maintain the optimum health of your grass, regularly mow throughout the summer months.

The general rule of thumb is to never mow lower than ⅓ inch tall, as it weakens the root system, and can badly stress your turf, leaving it vulnerable to disease, drought and insect or weed invasion. However, University of Florida IFSA Extension provides recommended mowing heights for your lawn’s specific turfgrass species, which are as follows:

• Bahiagrass: 3.5 – 4″
• Centipedegrass: 1 – 2″
• St. Augustinegrass: standard cultivars, 3.5 – 4″; semidwarf cultivars, 2 – 2.5″
• Zoysiagrass: The majority of these cultivars should be mowed at 1.5-2″

Other lawn mowing tips include:

• Leave grass clippings on the ground. They act as compost, returning valuable nutrients to the lawn.
• Keep mower blades sharp. Dull mower blades tear leaf blades, stressing the grass and making it more vulnerable to pests and disease.
• Do not mow when your lawn is wet. Wet grass clippings keep your mower blades from making the cleanest possible cut.

If you do miss a weekly mowing, bring the height of the grass back down to the recommended level slowly. Raise the mower height so you don’t remove too much leaf tissue at once.

2. Water less frequently for longer periods of time

Florida newcomers make the common mistake of watering too frequently. Afternoon temperatures are hot – especially during summer – so your turfgrass must get thirsty, right? Not so! Overwatering encourages shallow root growth, which reduces your lawn’s ability to tolerate stress. A healthy lawn has deep roots. How often to water depends on the season, your soil type, the amount of shade in your yard and other factors.

During times of active growth – now through autumn – lawns generally need watering once or twice a week. To encourage deep root growth, however, depend more upon observing your lawn than looking at the calendar, and only water when it “tells” you.

Signs that your lawn is ready to irrigate include the following:

• Folded leaf blades.
• Blue-gray color.
• Footprints visible in grass (the grass doesn’t spring back).

When you do give your lawn a drink, be sure not to saturate it – especially to the point of runoff, which wastes water. A simple watering schedule is to apply ½ to ¾ inch of water when the grass begins to show the signs listed above. Once you’ve applied this amount, don’t irrigate until your grass looks “thirsty” again. Moreover, don’t irrigate if rain is forecast within the next 24 hours.

Also observe your county’s lawn watering restrictions. Each Florida county has different restrictions on days of the week, hours of the day and length of time you can water, so check your county’s website or call your county government’s office.

3. Aerate your lawn

Although many homeowners skip this step, aerating the soil keeps it from getting compact, and supplies roots with water, oxygen and nutrients. There are three types of aeration methods: core, spike and liquid. Lawn care professionals prefer the core method, as it removes plugs of dirt from the lawn, relieving pressure in compacted soil and providing more breathing room for air and water to travel through to reach your grass’s roots. 

The best time of year to aerate in Central Florida is late spring or early summer, when the grass is growing most rapidly and will be able to recover quickly from the stress of aeration. Our blog post – “Why You Should Aerate Your Lawn” – covers this topic in detail.

4. Apply the first round of fertilizer

Fertilizing your grass should follow aeration. Wait to apply the first round of fertilizer until the grass comes out of dormancy. Applying fertilizer now can help prepare your grass for the heat of summer months ahead. 

Start with a soil test to determine nutrient requirements as well as your soil’s pH level. Fertilizers are composed of three main elements – nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium – as well as a variety of other ingredients. Opt for a balanced blend of granular, slow-release fertilizer to adjust the acidity/alkalinity and nutrient content of your soil accordingly. When applying granular fertilizer, a drop spreader is suitable for small lawns, while larger areas of turf require a rotary spreader for even coverage.

Applying the proper amount of fertilizer will help your lawn resist weeds. However, applying fertilizer at the wrong time or applying too much can damage your lawn. If you’ve installed a new lawn, wait at least one or two months before fertilizing so it doesn’t run off because the root system isn’t developed. Be sure to read the label carefully before applying. Never apply more than one pound of nitrogen per application.

5. Monitor for weeds, insect pests and diseases, and treat accordingly

Weeds, destructive insects and diseases all spell trouble for your slice of Central Florida paradise! This is the time of year to prevent them from gaining a foothold. While a healthy lawn is the best defense, here’s what you need to know to get the most from your efforts.

Weeds are first on our list. There are three traditional ways to control them:

Removal by hand – This method is practical only for small yards or flower beds. The obvious drawback is that it’s labor-intensive and time-consuming, should you decide to do it yourself. The best time to hand-pull weeds is when the soil is moist. For this method to be effective, you should make sure you remove the whole plant with its roots.

Proper lawn care – Fertilize your lawn frequently every six to eight weeks during growing season. This helps your lawn stay thick, leaving little space for the unwanted weeds. As mentioned earlier, mowing your lawn at a taller height shades the soil, making it harder for the weed seeds to sprout, since their growth relies heavily on sunlight. Proper irrigation is another important component. Watering heavily and infrequently is the key to a thick grass and deeper roots, giving weeds tough competition.

Herbicide application – Usually, two types of chemical treatments are used to control the spread and growth of weeds: post-emergent and pre-emergent herbicides. Post-emergent chemical treatments kill a weed that is already growing, while pre-emergent herbicides are formulated to prevent germination.

Post-emergent herbicides can be selective – only targeting weeds – or non-selective, killing everything they come in contact with. As for pre-emergent herbicides, be aware that they will also prevent grass seeds from growing, if you plan to reseed any area of your lawn. To know when to apply a pre-emergent, learn the growing season for specific weed species, and apply 14 to 21 days prior to expected growth. Our blog post – “Common Weeds in Central Florida Lawns” – covers this topic in detail.

Central Florida’s subtropical climate is conducive to a long growing season and beautiful variety of plant life. Unfortunately, it’s also conducive to destructive insects that thrive on devouring your lawn! Common culprits include chinch bugs, cutworms, fall army worms (which are also active in spring), mole crickets and sod webworms. Our blog post – “Insect Pests to Look Out for in Your Central Florida Yard” – covers this topic in greater detail.

Again, a healthy lawn will go a long way in preventing these pests from gaining a foothold. When possible, it’s best to avoid applying pesticide, as this will also kill beneficial insects. If necessary, use a pesticide formulated to target a specific insect. Putting the following practices in place can help.

Encourage natural enemies – Introduce beneficial insects such as ladybugs, parasitic wasps and predatory beetles, which naturally minimize pest populations. Birds are also helpful – set up feeders to attract them.

Add nematodes to the soil – These microscopic roundworms are effective at controlling a wide range of harmful soil-dwelling pests – especially insect larvae and grubs – by releasing bacteria that kill them, and are a natural, eco-friendly alternative to chemical pesticides. Introduce nematodes to your lawn when the soil is moist.

As for lawn diseases, they can be tricky to identify because the damage they cause in the form of discolored or patchy turf is sometimes mistaken for insect infestation. The two main symptoms of turfgrass diseases are a circular patch that is no longer uniformly green and/or spots on the foliage. If you spot these signs, further examine the leaves and roots of your turf for more symptoms.

Fairy ring, dollar spot, leaf spot, rust and root rot are among common lawn diseases in Central Florida. University of Florida IFSA Extension provides a helpful flow chart to help identify turfgrass diseases. Click here to access it.

Many diseases can be avoided through good lawn management, especially through avoiding over-watering. Keep these tips in mind:

•       Avoid mowing down that affected grass and don’t compost it, because that can
      further spread the spores.
•       Enhance lawn drainage so that water doesn’t pool on the lawn.
•       Follow best mowing practices.
•       Don’t allow thatch to build up, as it can become a breeding ground for fungi.
•       Apply the appropriate fertilizer.

The Take-Home Message

Even here in Central Florida where there isn’t much differentiation among the seasons, spring is a special time that’s crucial in establishing a healthy lawn that will be a great asset to your property throughout the year! Taking these steps now can save you a lot of the frustration, work and – yes, money – that correcting the consequences of an unhealthy lawn would entail.

However, we know that you may not be willing or able to put in the time and effort necessary. That’s what we’re here for! Our professionals at Daniel’s Lawn Service & Pressure Washing are true locals with a passion for keeping your Central Florida yard beautiful and healthy!

In addition to lawn care, our full-service company provides landscape design, plant and tree installation, tree trimming, yard maintenance, land clearing, pressure washing and so much more. Contact us today so we can do the work, and you can do the enjoying! We proudly serve all of Central Florida – including Orlando, Sanford, Longwood and Lake Mary! We look forward to helping you achieve your goals and bring your vision to life!

During the months of January and February, native and long-time Floridians bundle up in coats and jackets to keep warm when facing what we consider cold temperatures — and ignore the laughs from our northern family and friends accustomed to snowplows clearing paths after yet another blizzard.

But we’re not the only ones who need to stay warm as the thermometer reading drops. Our outdoor plants require extra care and attention to survive Central Florida’s coldest nights of the year. However, doing so isn’t quite as simple as covering shrubs and bedding plants with old sheets and towels and hoping for the best. Knowing how to protect your plants from freezing is easier — and less expensive — than replacing them!

Advice for Florida Newcomers: You DO Need to Protect Your Plants in Winter

If you were waiting for a snowplow to come to the rescue not long ago (just before deciding you’d had enough), Central Florida’s version of winter may seem mild to you. Your plants might not agree. Many shrubs, perennials, annuals and even some trees are susceptible to temperatures that are considered a light freeze (29° to 32° F) back home.

Tropical plants are especially vulnerable — which is important to keep in mind if they were already on your property when you bought your house, or you planted hibiscus, bird of paradise, etc., because you wanted a Florida look for your landscaping. This is because while South Florida has a true tropical climate, Central Florida’s climate is actually subtropical. Tropical plants thrive here as long as the temperature cooperates. Once a freeze warning is issued, they’re at high risk for damage or loss — even from one night of exposure. In fact, sudden freezing temperatures after prolonged warm weather can do more harm to your plants than long-lasting freezing weather, as they haven’t had adequate time to acclimate.

Which Plants to Cover — and How to Cover Them

Now that we’ve hopefully convinced you that being prepared for a freeze is essential to saving your plants, those that should be covered include citrus, fuchsia, bougainvillea, succulents, salvia, hibiscus, jasmine, tree ferns and penstemon. Canterbury Farms Nursery & Garden Center provides an extensive list of subtropical and tropical plants that need extra protection. Click here to read in full.

In addition, the staff of Cypress Creek Landscape Supply recommends covering any recently installed plant when a freeze is forecast — even if it’s cold-hardy — as it takes time for a plant to become well-established enough to survive a freeze.

To be ready with the right protection, buy frost cloth. This is an insulating material of woven fabric created specifically to protect plants from freeze damage. The cloths are reusable, and can last for several years. Frost cloth is available at plant nurseries and home improvement centers, as well as major online retailers.

The good people at Green Acres Nursery & Supplies provide the following instructions for correctly placing frost cloth:

• Completely drape the plant from the top all the way to the ground.
• Apply the cloth right before sundown to make sure the cloth gathers the heat produced in the ground during the day.
• Don’t leave any openings in the cloth for the warm air to escape or cold air to enter at night.
• It is crucial that the frost cloth touches the ground, to the drip line of the plant.

Placing heavy objects like bricks or securing the fabric into the ground with frost fabric staples will ensure that the cloth forms a seal with the ground and traps the warm air that radiates from the soil that is captured during the day. The bricks or staples will also secure the cloth in the case of heavy winds and/or rain, reducing the chances of it blowing away.

A quilt or blanket can be used as a last resort, but only for hardy, well-established plants that won’t be damaged by their weight. Burlap can be used, but shouldn’t touch the plants, which necessitates creating a tent-like structure with wooden stakes. This prevents wet burlap from freezing and damaging foliage, and ensures the cover doesn’t blow away in the wind.

General freeze protection measures include the following:

• Add extra mulch around sensitive plants when a freeze is forecast. This helps trap the soil’s heat.
• Water your sensitive plants early in the day before a forecasted freeze. This allows the soil to absorb warmth from the sun and warmer daytime air, thereby helping plants survive the cold. Also, cold winds are drying, taking a toll on plants that are already too dry.
• Bring potted or container plants indoors, or at least bring them closer to each other. Add mulch around the plants to trap heat at the surface if they need to stay outdoors.

What NOT to Do to Protect Your Plants

Being unprepared is the first big mistake, from which all other mistakes follow. When a cold front approaches, the panic reaction is to grab whatever old sheets, beach towels, etc., are available and cover vulnerable plants. Such items not only do nothing to protect against the cold, their weight can break branches, they are difficult to secure on the plant, and will also transmit cold to the plants if they become wet. Moreover, blankets and sheets do not allow for light penetration or airflow, and can cook the plant if they get too hot.

Worse yet is improvising with a sheet of plastic, or large plastic garbage bags. Landscaping professionals agree that plastic should never be used to cover plants because it doesn’t “breathe,” and can actually create an even colder temperature underneath. Plastic also tends to allow moisture to form on plant leaves, causing them to burn.

Moreover, you may have heard about using overhead irrigation during a freeze. According to UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions, running irrigation like this works on farms where the irrigation systems are designed for this purpose. The water has to run continuously from before the freeze to several hours after temperatures rise for this method to protect plants. With home irrigation systems, you’re just wasting water. Additionally, the amount of water that home irrigation puts out can turn into heavy ice, which can damage plants.

Also, don’t fertilize cold-sensitive plants in the late fall or winter. Fertilizer application will encourage new growth, which is especially susceptible to cold injury. Newly pruned plants are more susceptible to cold damage as well, so postpone pruning until spring. 

The Take-Home Message

While your Central Florida plants need protection against the freezing temperatures that occur in January and February, being proactive with proper care throughout the year will give them an extra advantage in the hardiness department. Plants tolerate cold temperatures better and recover from injury faster when they’re healthy.

Our blog posts — “How to Protect Your Plants From Freeze” — and “First Winter in Florida? We Answer Your Yard and Garden Care Questions!” — provide additional tips on winter plant care.

So even though we’re privileged to live in The Sunshine State, the plants that beautify our property require special attention this time of year. Our experienced team at Daniel’s Lawn Service & Pressure Washing Inc. knows the ins and outs of Central Florida’s climate, so your winter yard can be as beautiful as your spring and summer yard when it’s under our care! We will work with you to achieve your goals and bring your vision to life every season of the year! Our full-service company provides landscape design, tree installation, tree trimming, yard maintenance, bush hogging, pressure washing and so much more. Contact us today so we can do the work, and you can do the enjoying!

Pity the poor poinsettia! The star of holiday decorating both outdoors and indoors, it’s typically tossed in the trash soon after January 1 and forgotten until around mid-November, when new poinsettias are purchased to start the cycle again. This season, we ask you to consider the poinsettia in a different way – as an intriguing perennial that adds long-term interest to your Central Florida yard. With proper care, you’ll be rewarded with a thriving foliage plant that can last for many years.

“The Central Florida area is one of the best places in the country to keep this low-maintenance plant alive and thriving,” writes Theresa Johnston in About Orlando. “After a few months, the colorful leaf-like bracts will begin to fade out, leaving a beautiful, full, green bushy plant with just hints of its holiday red.”

The same applies to potted poinsettias used as interior decorations. These hardy plants can likewise flourish indoors, and – with the proper care – even “rebloom” with colorful, showy bracts in December.

If you’re catching on that there’s much more to poinsettias than a few weeks of festive red or white foliage that dresses up your front porch and foyer, keep reading!

Poinsettias – A Brief History

Although poinsettias are usually associated with snowy climates – thanks to all of those Christmas movies and greeting cards – the plant originated in Mexico. According to University of Florida IFSA Extension, the ancient Aztecs called the plant “cuetlaxóchit,” using it in their fall celebrations, as well as for the production of red and purple dyes, and for medicines derived from its milky white sap.

The poinsettia’s long identification with Christmas began in the 17th century, when Franciscan friars used it to decorate altars and Nativity scenes. They named the plant “flor de Nochebuena” (“Holy Night flower”) because it blooms around Christmas. The festive plant’s good timing also boosted its popularity throughout Latin American countries, where it goes by such names as “pastora” and “flor de Pascuas,” which mean “Christmas flower.”

It earned its English name in honor of Joel Roberts Poinsett, the botanist and U.S. ambassador to Mexico, who introduced it to the United States in 1825. Poinsett sent one of these exotic specimens to his friend, Robert Buist, a renowned Philadelphia botanist with the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society, who exhibited the plant for the first time at a flower show in 1829. A successful floral import-export executive, Buist introduced the plant in Europe in the 1830s and christened it “Euphorbia Poinsettia.” Demand for poinsettias quickly spread, and the rest is holiday history.

Currently, there are more than 150 poinsettia varieties. However, those with red, white and marbled bracts are the most popular in Florida. For those who want to make a fashion statement, other available colors include pink, fuchsia, burgundy, yellow and even purple. 

Where do all these poinsettias come from? Ecke Ranch, which is based in Encinitas, California, produces over 70% of the purchased poinsettias in the U.S. The ranch accounts for almost half the market of the plant in the world!

Planting Poinsettias Outdoors

Here’s one more interesting fact. In the six weeks prior to Christmas, approximately 35 million poinsettias are sold, representing about $250 million worth of sales. That’s a lot of money – not to mention a lot of fine, healthy plants – that get tossed out right after Christmas. This time, consider your holiday poinsettias as an investment in your landscaping instead of disposable décor! Removing them from their pot and planting them in your yard isn’t that difficult – nor is their care and maintenance.

To plant and grow poinsettias outdoors, Sydney Park Brown of University of Florida IFSA Extension provides the following instructions.

‘The best potted plants for establishing in the landscape are ones that have been in good light while indoors and have retained some green and healthy leaves. Choose a sunny spot that will not receive any artificial light at night. Plant your potted poinsettia(s) as soon as danger of frost is past. Cut off the fading bracts, leaving 4–6 inches of the stem on each branch and as many green leaves as possible.

“Poinsettias prefer moist, well-drained soils with a soil pH between 5.5 and 6.5. Place the plant in the soil at the same depth it was growing in the container. Gently firm the soil around the plant and water well. Keep the plant mulched and well-watered until established. Fertilize monthly, from March to October in central and south Florida and from May to September in north Florida. Use a fertilizer with balanced amounts of nitrogen and potassium (the first and third numbers of the analysis) and low phosphorus (the middle number). Follow the application directions on the product label.

“Prune in early spring when the floral display is finished and the danger of frost has passed. Cut back to within 12 to 18 inches of the ground or to living tissue if the plant was damaged by cold. Poinsettias may become “leggy” and unattractive if not pruned regularly during the growing season. Cut back once a month, if needed, leaving four leaves on each shoot. Discontinue pruning after September 10. Flower buds will begin to develop in October. Delay or disruption of flowering will occur if fall temperatures are too warm or too cold or if the required dark period is interrupted.”

Did You Know? Once out of the pot and planted in the ground, a healthy poinsettia can reach a height of 10’! 

Growing Healthy Poinsettias Indoors

If you want your potted poinsettias to remain a container plant – whether indoors or out – University of Florida IFSA Extension provides the following tips:

• Set on a porch or in a window with indirect sunlight for at least 6 hours per day.
• If kept indoors, room temperatures of 65°F to 70°F are best; keep them away from cold drafts and excessive heat.
• Water thoroughly only when the surface of the soil is dry to the touch; do not water too frequently.
• Indoors, fertilize lightly only every 4-6 weeks.
• In April, when the leaves and bracts begin to deteriorate and fall off, cut the plant back and give it sun, water and fertilizer regularly.

A big challenge is to get your potted poinsettias to “reflower” the next year. For those who know your poinsettia basics, the brightly colored bracts aren’t flowers – rather, they’re a cluster of modified leaves. The actual flowers are small, and clustered in the center of the bracts. To encourage them to put on their holiday show, start in October by keeping them in complete darkness for at least 13-14 hours each day, and in bright light the rest of the day. After about two months – just in time for Christmas – your potted poinsettias should give you the gift of a colorful display of blooms!

By the way, the persistent myth that poinsettias are poisonous is just that – a myth!  Like most plants, they contain toxins, but not in dangerously high concentrations. While some individuals are mildly allergic to their milky sap, opportunities for it to make enough contact with skin to cause a reaction are pretty slim. Our blog post – “Busting Seven Common Yard and Garden Myths” – covers this topic in greater detail.

The Take-Home Message

Decorating with poinsettias is a favorite Christmas tradition that brightens homes and helps to make the season merry. With a little care and attention, they can truly be the gift that keeps on giving to your landscape or home throughout the year, for years to come!

Of course, once those poinsettias are growing in your yard, we can take care of them – along with all of your other plants! Daniel’s Lawn Care & Pressure Washing is a full-service company that provides yard maintenance, landscape design, tree installation, tree trimming, pressure washing and so much more. Contact us today so we can do the work, and you can do the enjoying! We proudly serve all of Central Florida – including Orlando, Sanford, Longwood and Lake Mary! We look forward to helping you achieve your goals and bring your vision to life!

Back when dinosaurs ruled the Earth, those that lived in subtropical and tropical climates trod among prehistoric plants now known as cycads. Although the dinosaurs died out, cycads survive to the present day.  With their fringy fronds, some cycad species are mistaken for palms, with the misnamed sago palm being the most well-known example.

Unlike palms, however, cycads are dioecious, meaning they have separate male and female plants. When mature, the male plants produce pollen-filled cones, while the females produce larger cones that contain seeds. Botanical distinctions aside, cycads can be an intriguing low-maintenance addition to your landscape that bring a lush touch of the tropics and a living glimpse of a long-bygone era. Our blog post – “How to Create a Tropical Look for Your Central Florida Yard” – provides plant recommendations that cycads will visually complement.

Bring a Bit of Jurassic Park to Your Yard with These Prehistoric Cycads

If you want to introduce a bit of wild, primordial beauty to your 21st century yard, cycads will set the scene, harkening back to when the world was young. Cycads have thrived for millions of years, so they’ll readily find growing conditions on your property agreeable.

University of Florida IFAS Gardening Solutions provides the following list of cycads you can incorporate into your landscaping. Click on the name to learn more about each!

Bamboo Cycad – Despite all we just said about cycads resembling palms, the bamboo cycad looks more like the plant it’s named for. Ceratozamia hildae has an upright, delicate appearance that makes it one of the most unique among all 200 cycad species.

It forms thin, stem-like petioles that grow up to 5-7 feet long depending on how much sunlight they receive. Pairs of thin, lime-green “leaflets” are arranged along the petiole in a “bow tie” pattern. These thin, papery leaflets distinguish the bamboo cycad from other cycads, which typically have thick, leathery leaflets. 

Easy to grow, bamboo cycads tolerate a wide range of climate and light conditions, and can mature in 2-4 years with proper care. They grow best in partial shade, but also can be grown in moderate sun or deep shade. Bamboo cycads require a little moisture compared to other cycads, but should never be overwatered or allowed to sit in saturated soil, as they’re sensitive to root rot. Avoid planting in low spots or places that become saturated easily. If you have a small yard with limited space, they make attractive container plants.

Cardboard Plant – Known scientifically as Zamia furfuracea, the cardboard plant is a Florida landscape favorite that easily passes for a palm. In fact, it’s commonly referred to as a cardboard palm, so if you hear this designation, know that it’s one and the same! The cardboard plant provides a year-round display of striking foliage and, once established, requires little water or maintenance. Fun fact: The cardboard plant was named a 2007 Florida Plant of the Year by the Florida Nursery Growers & Landscape Association (FNGLA).

The fronds of the cardboard plant can grow to 3 feet long with up to 12 pairs of stiff, leathery, dark green leaflets. Its evergreen foliage provides a great backdrop for colorful flowers in landscape beds. Select a site that will leave the plant ample room to grow, as it can reach up to 6 feet in diameter. This hardy, eye-catching plant grows in full sun or shade, and tolerates a variety of well-drained soils.

The leaves grow out of a thick, fleshy trunk that serves as a reservoir in times of drought. The trunk is also where the distinctive-looking reproductive structures arise. Male and female plants each produce their own cones. After the female cones are fertilized, they ripen and break open to reveal a number of tightly packed, bright red seeds.

Coontie – Looking like a combination of a palm and a fern, the coontie (Zamia integrifolia) has the distinction of being the only cycad native to the United States. Typically one to three feet tall, it has stiff, glossy, featherlike leaves attached to a thick, short, underground stem.

Because of its high drought tolerance and moderate salt tolerance, the coontie is an excellent choice for coastal yards – and it’s cold-hardy, as well. Coonties can be planted in sun or shade, and can be used as a specimen plant or in foundation and massed plantings.

The coontie is also the preferred food source for larvae of the rare atala butterfly, which makes it an ideal addition to any butterfly garden. But don’t worry – the coontie survives the larvae’s appetite and grows new leaves!

Dioon – This is a genus of plants native to Central America. These cycads are easy to grow and can make a strong statement in any landscape. They’ve been discovered by professional landscapers and gardeners alike as replacements for sago plants, which are susceptible to the destructive cycad aulacaspis scale.

Chestnut dioon (Dioon edule) and giant dioon (D. spinulosum) are the two species most commonly grown in Florida. Although the palm-like leaves of both plants have a feathery look, the leaf tips are quite spiny.

Chestnut dioon is the more cold-hardy of the two and is suitable for USDA zones 8-11. It resembles the king sago, but the foliage is typically more blue-green and can even be pale blue or pale red as it emerges. Though quite slow growing, the plant can develop multiple trunks and can reach up to 8 feet in height. Giant dioon is best suited for the southern parts of Florida since it is rated for USDA zones 9B-11. It produces stiff, upright leaves that are light green in color. Giant dioon is a suitable alternative for the queen sago and grows up to 5 to 12 feet tall and 6 feet across.

Chestnut dioon prefers full sun to partial shade, while giant dioon should be planted in partial or full shade. Both species will perform best when planted in a well-drained soil that receives irrigation, but they are also drought-tolerant. They can be grown in poor soils, though fertilizing the plants will improve growth. Look for a balanced fertilizer that also provides trace elements.

Chestnut dioon also has a high tolerance to salt, making it a Florida-friendly choice for coastal gardens. Both species can work well as specimen plants or as an architectural backdrop to other plants in a mulched bed.

Sago Alternatives – As mentioned, the cycad aulacaspis scale has had a devastating effect on king and queen sago plants, with the majority of those having some degree of infestation. This pest is very common in Central Florida. Compared to other scale insects that attack plants, this scale is much more aggressive. It multiplies rapidly and leads to leaf yellowing. For this reason, home gardeners are looking for alternatives that can provide a similar dramatic, tropical look, but are resistant to this scale and other insect pests.

In addition to the chestnut dioon described earlier, Ceratozamia kuesteriana is another good alternative to the king sago, as both can be grown throughout Florida. Both of these cycads have evergreen, palm-like fronds and resemble the king sago, but they aren’t as prone to the cycad aulacaspis scale. In case you’re wondering, Ceratozamia kuesteriana doesn’t have a more user-friendly common name.

Other alternatives to sagos include actual palms – such as the slow-growing windmill and radicalis palms. Some of these plants prefer full sun, while others like a little shade.

Tips for Growing Healthy Cycads

Although most cycads are low-maintenance – after all, there was no one around to take care of them eons ago – home gardeners can unknowingly cause harm. Sara Edelman – Palm and Cycad Manager at Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden – provides the following tips to ensure healthy cycads.

Take care when using mulch – Mulch increases organic matter and nutrients around plants and decreases the growth of weeds. However, mulch is a major deterrent of cycad growth. The base of the cycad is usually characterized by a nice round bud that is somewhat soft. When mulch gets too close to the base, the soft part begins to rot and spreads infection through the cycad. After a few months of heavy mulching around cycads, the newest leaves will start to wilt.

Pay attention to planting depth – In many gardens, the base of the cycad is buried underground, much like a ground orchid bulb. The result is severe decay, similar to what heavy mulching causes. Burying the base underground suffocates the cycad, increases chance of rot and stops the plant from producing new leaves. The correct depth is directly below the base of the cycad and above where the roots start.

Don’t remove the pup – For many cycads, strength and health are measured by the ability to grow pups. This is a form of asexual reproduction in which the individual is able to grow a new center of growth off of the current base. Many people who want to keep their cycad small will remove the pup. However, doing so could damage the cycad beyond repair, and there is a risk of losing the parent and the pup to infection, rot and disease. If the goal is to keep the cycad manageable, trim back the leaves. Cycads respond very well to trimming in the fall months as long as no damage is done to the base of the plant.

Now, here’s a word of caution: All cycads are toxic to humans and animals. No part of any cycad should be eaten. Touching the leaves is generally not considered dangerous, but it’s a good idea to wash your hands afterward. To stay on the safe side, don’t plant a cycad if you own a dog that’s allowed the run of your yard. If you have small children – or visiting grandchildren – make sure they don’t try to eat the seeds, to which they may be attracted.

The Take-Home Message

Cycads can be an ideal plant to complement your existing landscaping, or used to establish a tropical look with Florida flair. Although low-maintenance, care should be taken to avoid inadvertently harming them through improper gardening methods.

If you need advice on where to plant these fascinating prehistoric “living fossils” – as well as someone to provide and plant them – call us! Our landscaping experts at Daniel’s Lawn Service & Pressure Washing can advise you on the best types of cycads (or any plant or tree) for your property – and provide a landscaping design that allows you to incorporate and showcase them to give you a yard that will truly be your slice of Central Florida paradise!

In addition to landscaping design, our full-service company provides plant and tree installation, tree trimming, yard maintenance, pressure washing and so much more. Contact us today so we can do the work, and you can do the enjoying! We proudly serve all of Central Florida – including Orlando, Sanford, Longwood and Lake Mary! We look forward to helping you achieve your goals and bring your vision to life!

Fall is a subtle season in Central Florida. Afternoon temperatures ease from triple to double digits, and the sun sets a little earlier. The most obvious change is announced by the arrival of PSL (pumpkin spice latte) season. But although September isn’t the start of sweater weather here, your yard still needs special attention to keep it healthy now, as well to make sure it’s ready to thrive again in spring! We at Daniel’s Lawn Service & Pressure Washing offer this guide to fall lawn care – as well as some garden favorites to brighten your yard!

Time to Aerate, Seed/Overseed and Fertilize Your Lawn

If you’ve never aerated your lawn, you’re not alone. However, you might be missing a step that could greatly benefit your lawn’s health. ASI Landscaping Management makes the case for aeration as follows:

“Throughout the year, your soil and grass go through a lot. It’s being trampled on by you and your family, rolled over by lawn equipment, and otherwise taking a lot of direct stress. By the time fall shows up, the grass and its roots can be compacted, which can affect how it grows going forward. Aeration involves using special equipment to perforate the ground with a series of shallow indentations.

“Aeration does two things; it helps loosen those compacted grassroots and opens up the ground so it is more receptive to things like moisture, fertilizer, and seed. Having the soil in your yard aerated during your fall landscaping is giving it a healthier start for the following spring. Even though Florida tends to have sandy loam soil, which is a collaboration of sand, clay, and silt and doesn’t get compacted so easily, aeration can still be necessary.”

If you’re a lawn care enthusiast who likes to DIY, Briggs & Stratton offers the following instructions for aeration:

• Start with moist soil (wait 24 hours after a rainstorm or irrigation).
• Choose a tool or a machine that actually removes “plugs” of soil from the lawn, rather than making a hole in the ground. That causes the surrounding area of the hole to compact roots and grass even more, thus defeating the purpose of aerating your lawn. 
• Since most machines and tools only cover a small percentage of soil surface, multiple passes might be necessary. 
• Once the plugs have dried, they can be broken up and spread over your lawn for a clean appearance (the plugs can be broken up using your lawn mower or by pounding them with the back of a rake).

Fall is the ideal time to take a good look at your lawn and seed areas of bare soil. Seeding works great to rejuvenate such areas with a vibrant cover of grass. A good rule of thumb is that the less seeds you use, the longer it will take to knit in and the longer it takes to knit in, the more susceptible to weeds your lawn will be. As our blog post – “How to Prepare Your Central Florida Lawn for Fall” – notes, this is the best time of year to seed, since the cooler temperatures make better conditions for new growth.

If you want your yard to look its best throughout winter, fall is also the time to overseed. This refers to the practice of seeding a temporary cool-season grass – such as ryegrass – over the permanent warm-season lawn that goes dormant during late fall and early winter in many parts of Florida. This provides an attractive green lawn until it dies out in spring and growth of the warm-season grass resumes – with no additional work on your part required. Additional benefits of overseeding include better retention of the soil’s moisture, return of nutrients to the grass and weed prevention.

Overseeding – as well as seeding – should be done in conjunction with aeration because it allows the seeds to reach closer to the already existing root system, providing the seed-to-soil contact that allows seeds to germinate and sprout.

And don’t forget to fertilize! October is the last recommended month to fertilize prior to winter. Depending on your plants, you might need to fertilize more often than once a year, so make sure to research the care that your plants need. It’s also important to follow the manufacturer’s directions for use for the best results. Look for a brand that contains a slow release of nitrogen and potassium, and has a nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium ratio of 16-4-8.

If you really want to fertilize your lawn like a pro, have your soil tested to determine the kind of nutrients it needs and the balance of the pH level. Having the soil professionally tested yields valuable insight into what nutrients are missing, if the pH balance is appropriate to support growth, and more. These particular factors are critical to know. For example, if the pH level is too high, turfgrass and plants can suffer major deficiencies because vital nutrients in the soil are burned up before the plant can utilize anything. This will help you to select the proper fertilizer that will best support the growth of your turfgrass and plants. Fertilize after aerating your lawn to achieve optimum benefits.

Time to Treat Your Yard for Weeds and Pests

In Central Florida, numerous types of weeds and insect pests can pop up all year long. However, they are easier to get rid of in the fall. Choosing a pre-emergent and/or herbicide and applying it to your soil after aeration is the best way to prevent rapid weed growth.

According to Duda Sod, weeds such as chickweed, henbit, burweed, and wild geranium find it too hot during the rest of the year to grow, but can spread quickly over a dormant winter lawn. Lawn Care Extraordinaire provides an extensive list of common Florida weeds, with photographs to make identification easy.

After applying your pre-emergent, you may have to pull out a couple of stragglers after the initial application, but if rampant weed growth continues, you will need the help of a lawn service professional. The best time to apply an herbicide or pre-emergent is when the weather reaches 60 degrees Fahrenheit or lower for four consecutive nights, around late September and into October. Our blog post – “Weeding and Feeding Your Florida Lawn” – provides additional advice and recommendations.

When it comes to recognizing if you have an insect infestation, look for brown patches or any discoloration in your yard. Some of the insects to watch out for during the cooler months include:

• Fall armyworms
• Mole crickets
• Sod webworms
• Southern chinch bugs

As Gaston Mulch & Soil notes, “These pests should be treated and prevented before they cause lasting damage to your lawn. If your lawn has discoloration or brown patches, these are good indicators that you have an issue. Make sure you use specially formulated pesticides for these particular pests because the incorrect pesticide can be ineffective against our native pests and also damage your soil. Call a professional pest control company if you don’t feel comfortable handling pesticides yourself or think you have an infestation.”

If you are looking for eco-friendly pesticides that are non-toxic to humans and animals, our blog post – “Earth Friendly Pesticides” – offers instructions for mixing and applying your own homemade natural ingredient pesticides.

Time to Plant Annuals and Perennials to Enjoy Now

This being Central Florida, flowering plants can grow and bloom throughout fall and winter. University of Florida IFAS Gardening Solutions provides this list of plants that will brighten up your yard. Click on the plant name for more information.

Chrysanthemums – Often shortened to mums, these easy-to-grow, herbaceous perennials can live for years and continue to bloom. Generally these plants grow to be about 6 inches tall although they can reach 2 feet in height when flowering.

Mums form rounded mounds that, when in bloom, burst with the autumnal colors that our transplanted residents from up north may be missing this time of year! Not only do mums come in an array of colors, they also come in a variety of flower forms. The single flower form looks much like a daisy, while the pompon form has more of a globular shape. There is even a spoon flower form where the flower petals are tubular and flatten out at the tips, resembling many little spoons. Mums are ideal for mass plantings and cut flowers. As a bonus, the flowers attract butterflies.

Firespike – This ornamental adds a big pop of red to the garden. Known botanically as Odontonema cuspidatum, firespike grows 4 to 6 feet tall and produces clusters of 3-inch-long, tubular red flowers. Its foot-long spikes of showy flowers appear fall through winter in Central Florida. They attract hummingbirds and several species of butterflies that feed on the nectar. Because of its overall height and large, glossy foliage, firespike makes a great anchor when massed at the back of a garden bed. It also works well in cutting gardens.

Marigolds – Available in mainly a range of yellows and oranges, these hardy, reliable annuals are often used for color massing, edging, borders, cut flowers and container plantings. French marigolds excel year-round while the large-flowered African types are best for spring. The marigold will grow one to two feet tall, and needs full sun. The brightly colored flowers can be single or double. They make great cut flowers and are most effective in mass plantings; place them at least a foot apart. They’ll fill in to create a groundcover in an open bed or beneath a small tree.

Pansies and Violas – Pansies and violas are charming cold-tolerant annuals that you can plant in winter and enjoy through spring. Viola flowers are small—typically less than an inch across—while pansy flowers can be two to three inches wide. Pansies and violas come in a range of colors, including red, white, purple, yellow, and apricot. Some pansy flowers are a single bright color, while others have a dark center. Some also produce a sweet scent at dawn and dusk. They’re ideal for borders, containers, and window boxes. Plant in a well-drained, rich soil where they’ll receive plenty of sun, and irrigate only as needed.

Snapdragons – This is an easy-to-grow ornamental annual that can be planted in October. Snapdragons range in size from six inches to three feet tall and come in a rainbow of colors, so you can select a variety that fits your landscape. Snapdragons make great borders and they’re beautiful when planted in groups. They are a long-lasting cut flower, and can even thrive in containers. They do best in soil amended with organic matter and prefer full sun.

The Take-Home Message

Although it may seem that our Central Florida fall and winter temperatures don’t plunge as low as they do up north, our lawns can tell the difference! Performing the necessary care and maintenance now will keep your yard beautiful even when the only people still wearing shorts outdoors are the tourists – and will give it a big advantage when spring comes back around.

However, we know that you may not be willing or able to put in the time and effort necessary. That’s what we’re here for! Our professionals at Daniel’s Lawn Service & Pressure Washing are true locals with a passion for keeping your Central Florida yard beautiful and healthy!

In addition to lawn care, our full-service company provides landscape design, plant and tree installation, tree trimming, yard maintenance, land clearing, pressure washing and so much more. Contact us today so we can do the work, and you can do the enjoying! We proudly serve all of Central Florida – including Orlando, Sanford, Longwood and Lake Mary! We look forward to helping you achieve your goals and bring your vision to life!

Does the idea of living in Central Florida bring to mind a beautiful tropical landscape? If you’re a recent transplant to The Sunshine State from a region that has four distinct seasons – including that freezing one called “winter” – you may be looking forward to transforming your yard into a lush tropical paradise where you can enjoy resort-like vibes throughout the year (or most of it)!

Even if you’re a Florida native or semi-native whose yard is in a bit of a visual rut, uplifting your landscaping with a touch of the tropics can add exotic notes that engage the eyes and refresh the spirit. If you’re a fortunate pool owner, tropical plants are the ideal way to set off your pool and patio as the place to relax and entertain! Our blog post – “Landscaping Ideas for Your Central Florida Pool Area” – provides information on plant selection and landscaping design.

Tropical plants can take your yard from dull to dazzling, so we’ll look at what you’ll need to do to get started – and, of course, recommend some eye-catching, yet easy-to-care-for plants that will add the right textures and vivid colors that will transport you to your exclusive island-like retreat!

Why a Tropical-style Landscape Requires Planning

It’s important to know that Florida has two distinctive climate zones: subtropical and tropical. North and Central Florida are subtropical, while South Florida is tropical. So what’s the difference? Some of those exotic plants you envision might not be as tolerant of our relatively few cold days! This is why coconut palms thrive in Miami, but not here.

If you’re new to gardening, the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map is the standard by which gardeners and growers can determine which perennial plants are most likely to succeed at a specific location. Central Florida encompasses mostly zone 9b, with South Florida classified as zones 11a and 11b. Miami-Dade County and the Florida Keys are entirely in zone 11b.

Fortunately, this doesn’t significantly limit your selection – unless you really had your heart set on gathering coconuts from your very own tree! But creating an attractive tropical-inspired landscape requires planning to achieve the right visual harmony.

Keep in mind that any tropical plants you select will need to be incorporated into your existing landscaping. A common mistake is to fall in love with a hibiscus shrub or bougainvillea vine at your garden center or nursery, and bring it home only to plant it wherever there’s a bare spot. Instead, take photos of plants you like, then tour your yard and determine where they can best be planted to achieve the effect you want. Of course, getting inspiration from Pinterest and other sources can provide ideas for grouping plants and using them to define specific areas of your yard – such as a porch, patio, pool, walkways and corners. As will all other plants, check for sun/shade tolerance, soil and watering requirements, and height/width at maturity.

Colorful Plants and Graceful Palms for a Tropical Paradise

Even though tropical plants give an upscale look to your landscape, they’re relatively inexpensive to purchase and easy to care for. University of Florida IFAS Gardening Solutions kindly provides the following list of plants that can make your yard a standout! Click on the name to learn more about each.

Bird of Paradise – This distinctive plant adds exotic flair with its vivid orange and blue blooms that resemble birds taking flight. Its blue or blue-green leaves are oblong, 12 to 18 inches long, and held on long, stiff leafstalks. Technically, the “bloom” is comprised of sepals and bracts, but like poinsettias, these bracts are typically called flowers. Mature plants can produce up to three dozen flower spikes annually. It can be planted year-round in mass plantings, as a specimen, in a container, or as an accent plant. Bird of paradise reaches a maximum height of 3 to 5 feet with a spread of 2 to 4 feet. Mature plants will grow into clumps, which can be an attractive focal point in the landscape.

Bougainvillea – This tropical vining shrub is available in a wide array of bright, fanciful colors. As with the bird of paradise, its “flowers” are actually bracts. They appear periodically throughout most of the year, but are especially plentiful in the winter, when the splashes of color are a welcome sight. Bougainvillea blooms in fuchsia, red, white, yellow, and orange. It can be trained to grow over fences and trellises, or pruned into a shrub-like form. Bougainvilleas require full sun and perform better when soil is a little dry, making this a perfect plant for the drought-tolerant landscape. However, it does need to be protected from frost and freeze.

Bromeliads – These distinctive plants make a statement with their bold, often colorful leaves and the exotic flower spikes that many varieties produce. There are thousands of different bromeliads that come in an array of shapes and sizes and thrive in many light conditions, so you’re bound to find a variety that can work for you. Keep in mind that a bromeliad’s leaf hue, form and pace of development can be influenced by the amount of sunlight it receives.

Tip for gardeners: Periodically flush the natural cups that collect water at the base of the leaf rosettes, as these can be a breeding ground for mosquitoes.

Crotons – These perennial evergreen shrubs are popular for their large, showy leaves in bright colors that include reds, oranges, yellows, pinks, purple, greens, and white. This shrub can grow up to 10 feet tall, but there are both dwarf and larger varieties. Crotons are easy to propagate, and are reasonably priced. Many crotons grow best in full sun, but many cultivars can tolerate – and even prefer – light or partial shade. Frosts or freezes will damage them, but they quickly recover. When grown outdoors, this plant looks most appealing when planted in groups. Use them to accent green shrubbery and add a splash of color to any yard or container. Crotons are also attractive and hardy indoor plants.

Hibiscus – Nothing says tropical paradise better than the large bright, vibrant flowers of the hibiscus shrub! Hibiscus flowers can be many colors, come in single or double forms, and often last for just a day. Individual flowers may be short-lived, but the plant will produce blooms over a long flowering season. Hummingbirds and many types of butterflies are attracted by hibiscus, as well. Hibiscus range in size from low spreading shrubs to upright tree forms that can reach 20 feet in height. Some are compact and dense, while others are open and thin. They are used in the landscape as informal hedges or screens, foundation plants, specimens, or background for other plants. Check regularly for pests such as aphids, mealybugs and whiteflies.

Ixora – One of the best qualities about this tropical perennial is that it flowers throughout the year! Each flower cluster can last between 6 and 8 weeks, giving your landscape long-lasting and lovely color. Ixora varieties offer a nice selection of colors – including bright red, orange, yellow, pink, and white. A compact, densely-branching shrub, ixora is ideal for planting as a hedge, border, screen, or featured specimen – depending on which variety you select. Some ixora types grow to 10-15 feet tall and 4-10 feet wide when unpruned, but they can handle shearing to maintain them as a smaller hedge. However, constant shearing will reduce their flower display. Smaller forms that only reach 4-6 feet are available, as well as petite cultivars.

European Fan Palm – Also known as the Mediterranean fan palm, this slow-growing, clumping palm grows 8 to 15 feet tall and spreads 6 to 10 feet wide. The fine-textured fronds make this palm stand out from other plants in the landscape. Leaf color ranges from lovely light green to stunning silver. The fronds are held on curved, short trunks. Small clusters of yellow flowers form in the spring and are followed by inconspicuous fruits. Young or mature, this palm makes a stunning sculptural element in a garden or in a patio container.

Pygmy Date Palm – Graceful and – by palm tree standards – petite, the pygmy date palm is a popular choice for tropical, Florida-style landscaping, especially for homes on standard-size suburban or city lots. True to their name, pygmy date palms only reach a maximum height of about 12 feet. They are single-stemmed but often planted in clumps. This gives the look of a multi-trunked palm as the group reaches maturity.

Enjoy Instant Gratification with a Tropical Landscape

Although your tropical plants will grow to become even more full and spectacular over time, a big advantage is that they’re beautiful and engaging even right home from the garden center. You don’t have to wait to start enjoying the exotic charm they’ll bring to your yard! Once you have your very own Central Florida tropical oasis, you can indulge in a little getaway any time!

Don’t have the time or inclination to go select, plant and maintain tropical plants? Or not sure about where to plant them? Call Daniel’s Lawn Care & Pressure Washing to design, plant and even maintain the yard of your dreams! In addition to landscaping design, our full-service company provides plant and tree installation, tree trimming, yard maintenance, pressure washing and so much more. Contact us today so we can do the work, and you can do the enjoying! We proudly serve all of Central Florida – including Orlando, Sanford, Longwood and Lake Mary! We look forward to helping you achieve your goals and bring your vision to life!